I organise my converted images in a similar, but not identical, fashion:

Since the converted files are temporary (I archive raw, but not TIFFs), I specify converted files to be placed in a folder named <mmyy> inside the ../CaptureOne folder. I'll explain the additional folders, gallery, etc., later.

Mostly, I convert to 16-bit TIFFs. I've set 300 DPI as the default resolution for my printer. Unless, I am doing some testing, I'll leave the image name untouched. I must say that I like the way that C1LE adds "-1", "-2", and so on to multiple developments of the same image. It makes it easy to produce different versions to choose the best later in Photoshop. Although, it would be nice, if the developed images could be tagged with the settings used, so the following week, I'd have a clue what I'd been doing.

Then Gray Balance: I start with the "as shot" setting, which is usually auto-WB because I find that works Ok most of the time for my photography. I may look for a neutral object in the picture and use the eye-dropper, otherwise I'll just adjust the temp and tone sliders to something that gives a pleasing result. I have found that the wizard does often give results that I don't like.

Next, Exposure: I'm generally careful about blowing highlights, so adding some positive EC is not uncommon. And often, I boost shadow detail a bit with a tweak to the lower part of the curve, as shown in the tab screenshot. The exposure warning can be handy to check on where highlights are blown or getting close. (Read about the possible benefits of "over-exposure".)

I've seen lots of people moaning about flat colours with the 10D. Personally, I haven't found that much of an issue, so I don't tend to use the saturation slide in C1LE. If I do fiddle with saturation, I usually wait until Photoshop and use Digital Velvia or nik Multimedia's Brilliance/Warmth filter.